What model Singer is this?
#1
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[ATTACH=CONFIG]469474[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]469475[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]469476[/ATTACH]
I was wondering if anyone could identify this machine. I can't find a model number on it anywhere, but I'd like to know what it is. I would really appreciate any knowledge anyone can share with me. Thanks!
I was wondering if anyone could identify this machine. I can't find a model number on it anywhere, but I'd like to know what it is. I would really appreciate any knowledge anyone can share with me. Thanks!
#2
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You have a 1911 model 66
http://www.ismacs.net/singer_sewing_...-database.html
Sure is a pretty one too.
http://www.ismacs.net/singer_sewing_...-database.html
Sure is a pretty one too.
#3
Super Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Centralia, WA, USA
Posts: 4,890
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Weird. Your pictures look like a model 128 but your serial number isn't matching for me.
It wouldn't be the first time I've read one wrong though.Someone else will know for sure. It's not a 66, I own one. They use a round bobbin, that's a long bobbin machine in the pic.
Rodney
It wouldn't be the first time I've read one wrong though.Someone else will know for sure. It's not a 66, I own one. They use a round bobbin, that's a long bobbin machine in the pic.
Rodney
#4
Super Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Northern CA near Sacramento
Posts: 1,107
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You have to use the complete number. Don't drop the leading zero. Go to the almost the bottom of the list. This is a 128. One of 25,00 from 03-19-1924.
You have a 1911 model 66
http://www.ismacs.net/singer_sewing_...-database.html
Sure is a pretty one too.
http://www.ismacs.net/singer_sewing_...-database.html
Sure is a pretty one too.
#5
Super Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Centralia, WA, USA
Posts: 4,890
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Wait, found it. It's way down near the very bottom of the "G" list. It's one of 25000 Singer model 128s that were allocated for production on March,19 1924. Very nice decals on that one.
Rodney
* Mizkaki beat me to it while I was still typing.
Rodney
* Mizkaki beat me to it while I was still typing.
Last edited by Rodney; 03-30-2014 at 06:46 PM.
#7
![Default](/images/icons/icon1.gif)
(warning, this is a pet peeve of mine, but I'm also an accountant so accurate numbers are important to me LOL!)
Dropping the leading 0 in the number is a very common mistake people make. I see this on eBay listings all the time!! and it can make a big different in the age as Singer used the G series from 1910 to 1924 and about 11 million machines.
If you look over the numbers, you'll see that Singer went up to 999,999 and then to 1,000,000 and then they ran out of numbers for the G series, so they jumped from 9,999,999 to 0,000,001 and went back up to 0,999,999. Then they jumped to AA. (Keep in mind, G and A# (two digits) were used in the Elisabethport factory, but who knows if that was exclusive)
And since Singer didn't put commas in, a lot of people will get the wrong number because they don't read all of the digits - or stop looking when they've matched up the first six digits and forget the seventh, and the difference can be 10 years if the number is 9,762,892 and matched as 976,289
BTW - this is why it's good to know what the models look like. There is no doubt this one is a Model 128, so if you look up on the chart and it says something different - it's time to go back and look more closer at the model number to make sure it was read correctly.
Dropping the leading 0 in the number is a very common mistake people make. I see this on eBay listings all the time!! and it can make a big different in the age as Singer used the G series from 1910 to 1924 and about 11 million machines.
If you look over the numbers, you'll see that Singer went up to 999,999 and then to 1,000,000 and then they ran out of numbers for the G series, so they jumped from 9,999,999 to 0,000,001 and went back up to 0,999,999. Then they jumped to AA. (Keep in mind, G and A# (two digits) were used in the Elisabethport factory, but who knows if that was exclusive)
And since Singer didn't put commas in, a lot of people will get the wrong number because they don't read all of the digits - or stop looking when they've matched up the first six digits and forget the seventh, and the difference can be 10 years if the number is 9,762,892 and matched as 976,289
BTW - this is why it's good to know what the models look like. There is no doubt this one is a Model 128, so if you look up on the chart and it says something different - it's time to go back and look more closer at the model number to make sure it was read correctly.
#8
![Default](/images/icons/icon1.gif)
BTW - Angelbear, do you have any other questions about your machine? I've got one almost identical, and it's been all rewired and cleaned and adjusted.
This takes the regular Singer long bobbin and shuttle, very easy to obtain, and the regular attachments fit - though for the bed mount you need to get the long bobbin style, but they are the same for the full size (127) and this smaller machine. I've got plenty (attachments and shuttles) if you didn't get them with the machine and want them, just send me a PM with your address.
Also - if this did not come with a knee bar, be aware there are two styles, you have the older one that has a FEMALE end, the one from the 30's has a male end and does not work with your case.
However you can also easily convert this machine to take the regular singer foot pedal and cord - you only need to attach the plug in housing to the back of the machine and wire the motor and light (if you have one) into that. My husband has done that on a few machines for others that didn't want the knee pedal or old style push on wire connections.
This takes the regular Singer long bobbin and shuttle, very easy to obtain, and the regular attachments fit - though for the bed mount you need to get the long bobbin style, but they are the same for the full size (127) and this smaller machine. I've got plenty (attachments and shuttles) if you didn't get them with the machine and want them, just send me a PM with your address.
Also - if this did not come with a knee bar, be aware there are two styles, you have the older one that has a FEMALE end, the one from the 30's has a male end and does not work with your case.
However you can also easily convert this machine to take the regular singer foot pedal and cord - you only need to attach the plug in housing to the back of the machine and wire the motor and light (if you have one) into that. My husband has done that on a few machines for others that didn't want the knee pedal or old style push on wire connections.
#9
![Default](/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thank you all for your answers. I saw this machine in an antique shop about fifteen years ago and I bought it. It has been "on display" in my family room ever since. She does have a very old cord, but I've never tried to plug it in. Since joining this board and reading some about vintage machines, I think I will clean her up and see if she runs. I really appreciate all of the expert advice you have shared. Thanks!
#10
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Here is mine, I have a cabinet that the base fits into, and you need a different style of knee bar to work with this setup (so there are three different Singer kneebars, at least)
![](http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c363/TwoSilos/Sewing/More%20Machines/Small%20Machines/IMGP5672_zpse9155609.jpg)
Here is where the motor controller is on this model - if you want to use the knee bar. Check in your lid to see if it might actually be there. Sometimes they attach to the underside of the handle as well.
![](http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c363/TwoSilos/Sewing/More%20Machines/IMGP4512_zpsfeb691fb.jpg)
![](http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c363/TwoSilos/Sewing/More%20Machines/IMGP4508_zps32d3d9d9.jpg)
This is what the cord ends look like- my DH rewired this and used white cord for it.
![](http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c363/TwoSilos/Sewing/More%20Machines/IMGP4506_zpsc2cfbb82.jpg)
It's a rather simple procedure to convert this from a knee lever machine to a foot pedal machine if you didn't get the knee lever with it. They run $30-$50 for just the lever on eBay - for the older style you need. The newer style is more common and usually sells for a bit less.
![](http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c363/TwoSilos/Sewing/More%20Machines/Small%20Machines/IMGP5672_zpse9155609.jpg)
Here is where the motor controller is on this model - if you want to use the knee bar. Check in your lid to see if it might actually be there. Sometimes they attach to the underside of the handle as well.
![](http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c363/TwoSilos/Sewing/More%20Machines/IMGP4512_zpsfeb691fb.jpg)
![](http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c363/TwoSilos/Sewing/More%20Machines/IMGP4508_zps32d3d9d9.jpg)
This is what the cord ends look like- my DH rewired this and used white cord for it.
![](http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c363/TwoSilos/Sewing/More%20Machines/IMGP4506_zpsc2cfbb82.jpg)
It's a rather simple procedure to convert this from a knee lever machine to a foot pedal machine if you didn't get the knee lever with it. They run $30-$50 for just the lever on eBay - for the older style you need. The newer style is more common and usually sells for a bit less.
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