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  • won't sew through bulky spots...

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    Old 01-28-2014, 08:22 PM
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    Default won't sew through bulky spots...

    Hi
    I have a Singer 362 that I treadle and it has a very hard time going through bulky seams. It's as if there is not enough umph behind the needle to push it through. I often will push on the up take thing, or the screw that holds the needle in to "help" it out. Gently of course. Is there anything I can do to fix this? My Janome 712T has no trouble w/the same type of bulky seams so I don't think it should be a problem but maybe I am wrong. I have a 99 that will sometimes hesitate at bulky seams as well. Is it a Singer problem?

    Thanks for any tips,
    Jp
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    Old 01-28-2014, 08:30 PM
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    Define "bulky".

    I have several machines that get all timid when they see 7 layers of denim with folds in it. A couple others that say: "Wait, did I feel a bump somewhere"? Some are Singers, some Kenmores, and one a 104 year old Minnesota Mdl B.

    I've found that with bulky seams I have to reduce the presser foot tension. I was going the other way and the machine objected by staling out.

    Also I was told to use normal sized needles rather than real large ones too. It seams the larger ones take more oomph to be pushed through the fabric layers.

    And .... when was the last time the machine was thoroughly cleaned and oiled? The friction from a dirty machine that needs oil will slow it down a lot.

    Joe
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    Old 01-28-2014, 08:36 PM
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    By bulky in the most current useage of the machine it was a shirt, polycotton, had to topstitch so there was the seam allowance and the outer layers, so 4 layers of fabric, but poly/cotton is rather thin. I will try the presssure foot reduction. The machine has never had a thorough cleaning, but I oil fairly regularly. I will check that out too though.

    Thanks,
    Jp
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    Old 01-28-2014, 09:03 PM
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    Is your belt slipping? I sometimes use my hand wheel to walk the needle through tough spots on my treadle.
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    Old 01-29-2014, 06:39 AM
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    The belt is nice and tight, but not too tight. And even using the hand wheel does not help, it just hits the thickness and that is it. Unless I give it a little push w/the take up lever or needle clamp, but I don't want to break anything so I try not to do that. It just seems like it does not have the strength to go through. Strange.

    Jp
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    Old 01-29-2014, 07:46 AM
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    Maybe a fresh needle?
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    Old 01-29-2014, 08:29 AM
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    minibarn,

    One thing I've done with some of the machines is switch to a more modern foot with longer more curved toes. The old ones have fairly flat toes that seem to but up against a hump and stall.

    Still what you describe shouldn't stall out any machine in good working order.

    Joe
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    Old 01-29-2014, 12:45 PM
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    Brand new needle. The "toes" seem pretty long, but maybe I'll swipe the foot off my DDs new Brother and see what happens! Thankfully this is a short shank machine and the feet seem to be interchangeable w/the Brother.

    Thanks,
    Jp
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    Old 01-29-2014, 01:15 PM
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    I am wondering if the belt on the bottom would make any difference. I find no information in the book that tells how to adjust it or when it might need replacing. Here is a link to a blog that shows good pics of the machine. The last one shows the belt I am speaking of.

    http://waywardsewingmachine.blogspot...-mate-362.html

    Thanks,
    Jp
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    Old 01-29-2014, 02:59 PM
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    Jp,

    I don't know the exact specs but on the 413s styles I set them so there was some deflection on the longest piece of belt between the pulleys when I pressed on it with my finger.

    If the belt is clean, no cracks, and not visibly worn I'd not worry about it. I've worked on three with that set up and never have replaced a timing belt.

    I've never had a 362 to mess with so I'm hoping it's similar to the other machines I've had.

    Joe
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